By Hand London Elisalex
Gather The Mortmain
Mm, something makes me think Gather The Mortmain won! Miss Bossy has spoken...
I muslined the bodice first. Good job I did.
The darts on the right of this pic are the darts as per the pattern, those
on the left are approximately where I decided to stitch the darts. As usual, the pattern had them far too high and also slightly to the outside. The bodice was also short, so that was lengthened by half an inch.
I went with the sleeved version. Very few of the sleeved version have been made, most of those out there are the sleeveless version. It's coming up to winter here in NZ and I wanted something bright and cheerful to wear for winter.
The great thing about this dress is the waistband, not that you can really see it with this fabric; but the waistband adds great definition to this dress. The skirt is pleated onto the waistband, which is always a big win with me, I much prefer pleated skirts to gathers.
The sleeves have a cute little opening, but either I transferred the position incorrectly or they are just placed slightly in a strange place. They ended up practically on the inside of my arm.
I had fabric spare and so inserted an inseam pocket in each side seam. Well a girl needs pockets, even in a dress :-)
Oh and I nearly forgot la piece de la resistance...
Oh yes, we have an exposed zip! This is the first time I've inserted an exposed zip and the instructions from the ladies at Gather were fantastic. They were so clear and easy to follow. The zip is stitched close to the teeth first, then again down the edge of the tape once the seam allowance has been trimmed.
I used a new double-sided zipper foot from one of my good friends in the WSBN, me like, thanks Sandra. As you can probably see in the image above, I took in more than 5/8" on the back. Although the front fitted, as soon as I put the zip in the back, it seemed enormous. I think I ended up taking 1.25"!
I am happy though and the fit is now great.
The inside seams are all finished using pinking shears. One thing I did in addition was to stitch a duplicate waistband to the inside. I felt the seams top and bottom of the waistband weren't tidy and needed to finish them more neatly. It certainly looks better on the inside.
The sleeve armholes aren't perfect on the back. They seem to be cut in too far on the armscye on the back bodice. I've definitely cut this to the pattern, so this is possibly something which needs looking at.
And so the details...
Fabric: Stretch cotton sateen from the Arthur Toye sale in Wellington, December 2012 (can't remember the cost) Stashbusting!
Notions: Thread, an exposed zip, two buttons, interfacing for the neck facing and a wee bit of corded elastic for the button loops.Pattern: Gather Kits The Mortmain - the one with the cute drawings on the envelope :-)
This pattern has beautiful packaging. Caroline and Sandra at Gather Kits have really taken their time over this. The line drawing on the front is so cute. The tissue is a really nice thick tissue which doesn't tear easily. The instructions are really clear and easy to follow in a booklet. I love it.
First worn: To frocktails with the WSBN at the beginning of May. These photos taken last Sunday by the lovely Kat up by the National War Memorial in Wellington before going to high tea at Logan Brown with Kat and Mel (well it's hungry work taking photos don't you know)! Worn with some shoes I bought from Marks and Spencer in the UK, not long before we left the country.
Changes made: Shifted the darts slightly, lengthened the bodice by half inch and lined the waistband.
Another one? This is a great pattern and I love the shape and fit, so I'm tempted, sorely tempted to make up a sleeveless version. It may happen yet...