Showing posts with label Sewaholic Alma. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Sewaholic Alma. Show all posts

Sunday, 29 June 2014

Yep, I'm a Sewaholic fan!

The final week of The Monthly Stitch Indie Pattern Month and I'm quite amazed with how much I've managed to make. I think it's time to admit that yes, I'm a bit of a Sewaholic fan!


This is the Gabriola skirt with an Alma blouse. I've actually now made up both patterns twice, the blouse I made about a year ago in white cotton with self-drafted puffed sleeves and the skirt as part of my Gabrianna dress from about two weeks ago.

The Alma blouse
It's made from a pale grey poly-cotton and I made up the neckline from view A with the sleeves from view B. I tried to self-draft some pleated sleeves, but they ended up so big... How big? :-)


They were unpicked and fortunately I had plenty of fabric left to cut out the elbow length sleeves from view B. Even so, I must have short arms, I cut about 5cm off the length of them! I originally cut the blouse in a size 14, but although I used the darts from the 14, I'd do better next time to cut a 12, the 14 is just way too big!

Sorry, a nice bit of squint in the sun there!

It's an easy blouse to put together. The notch in the neckline went better this time and lays a whole lot flatter. The blouse also has a side zip, which I put in the wrong side, so it's on the right side not the left, but after three goes of trying to put in the invisible zip and it finally being successful, I was not unpicking it to put it in the left (correct?) side. Really, are you going to notice? No I thought not.


I'm perfectly happy with the blouse, but having made it up, am not completely convinced the colour is really me. Time will tell I guess. It's winter and I've not been well this week, so I'm paler than I might be anyway.


The Gabriola skirt
The only time I've actually made up this pattern was as part of my Gabrianna dress, so to make it up as a skirt officially really was a must. This is a purple poly-lycra fabric which I picked up from Fabric-a-Brac in April. Yep, I was brave and decided to use a stretch fabric for a pattern made for wovens. Dear me, this use of stretchy fabrics, I must be going a bit soft in the head! But hey, just look here, it works! Just check out the yoke detail.


The fabric just has a one way stretch, so it wasn't impossible to deal with, but I certainly had to be careful so that one layer of fabric didn't stretch more than the other while sewing. I can lower the feed dogs on my machine, but I can't change the pressure of the foot, so I had to be very careful.


What is great though, is the weight. This fabric has quite a bit of weight in it and so the skirt hangs so well. It doesn't crease either :-) I certainly let this one hang before I hemmed it. With the stretch in the fabric it would have been completely daft not to. I did initially sew the hem with my double needle, but that was a stupid idea, the hem was completely all over the place. So I unpicked it and stitched it using a straight stitch on the machine. Yep, you heard it right here, I hemmed something on my machine!!

I tried to add a pocket in the side seam... Not my best idea, I put it in too low and it also hasn't pressed as flat as I'd like.


I put in a centred zip. I had to put this in twice too, since the first time the fabric puckered and stretched. I'd probably have been better to handpick the zip... I also used a hook and bar instead of a button. Judging by the white gap, I've a sinking feeling I haven't aligned it properly. :-(

Bother, it's only since taking the photos I've noticed that!

The details
Fabric:  Pale grey polycotton with a very subtle pattern from the Fabric Warehouse, Wellington, January 2013 (stashbusting!) It cost about $10 for 2m and I've used about 1.5m if you count two lots of sleeves! 

  

Purple poly-lycra mix with a flower pattern from Fabric-a-Brac, Wellington, April 2014. I think I had 2.5m which cost about $4. I think there's about .75m left of that. It had a kind of sheen to it which means it really shows up the grainlines in the skirt pattern.


Notions:   Thread, white and pale grey for the blouse and black and purple for the skirt. (I use white and black for seams for most of my sewing.) The colours are for top stitching only. Also an invisible zip for the blouse, a dress zip for the skirt, interfacing for both and a hook and bar for the skirt.
Patterns:  Sewaholic Anna blouse and Sewaholic Gabriola skirt  I think that makes me a fan :-) You can vote for me to win the last contest here.


First worn:  I actually wore the skirt for the first time to work on Friday, but the combination was worn for these photos today :-) I took these in the local playground. It's just gone mid-winter which means it's now Matariki (Maori new year) and today the weather was amazing, wall to wall sunshine and about 15 degrees in the shade, ie a lot warmer in the sun! I was positively hot today! Not winter-like at all.


Changes made:  For the blouse - none, unless you count using darts for a different size to the finished size?  For the skirt - I attempted to put in an in-seam pocket, which ended up too low. I also shortened the length considerably, I think about 20 cm. It's still quite long, so I think even the full length would be too long for me and I'm about 5'6".
Recommend?  Oh yes! OK, I may be biased, but Sewaholic patterns are so nice to put together. They are well drafted and fit me really well with little or no changes. The instructions are also really clear and easy to follow.

Nikki no mates, it was just me and my camera in the park :-(

This skirt is great, the weight of the fabric gives it a great flow and I can swish in it too :-)


And swish!


Monday, 14 October 2013

Sewaholic Alma

Way back in June, I agreed to take part in Indie Pattern month organised by my fellow Wellington blogging pals Mel and Kat. The plan was to make an Alma blouse. I actually finished the blouse about mid July, but I've only just taken the photos. Yep, it has actually taken me nearly three months to photograph it!


I love the shape of this blouse, like the Pendrell it is designed to be worn outside or tucked in. I'm very much a non-tucked in girl and I'll be the first to find a blouse pattern which fits with that.

This was my very first Sewaholic make and I was really unsure of the fitting and sizing, and I ended up actually cutting the 16, based on my bust measurement. Me, being me, why waste time making a muslin. Time to test things? Let alone the spare fabric? Yeah, nah! So yes, I used my beautiful embroidered cotton for the first try! Check out this!


I stitched it up, darts and all, used my new invisible zipper foot and stitched in a perfect invisible zip, tried it on and...


Yep, enormous! I didn't need a zipper at all, it just went on over my head! I decided the darts were actually perfect, so unpicked the side seams and my zip and sewed it back up at the smaller size.


And I managed to sew the zip in again - beautifully.


Hurrah it now fits!


Have you noticed the sleeves...? No I thought not, have another look.


Like my puff sleeves?

None of the Alma sleeve shapes really took my fancy. I certainly didn't want cap sleeves, and the slightly longer ones didn't really float my boat, not with this fabric, so I drafted my own!

I've never done this before, but what is the Interweb for? I took the longer sleeve and completely redrafted it. For those interested, I'll put this in a new post. Anyway, I now have lovely puff sleeves which fit me perfectly.

I'm really pleased with how this has turned out. The blouse has certainly had a lot of wear already. Methinks I'd best make another ASAP!


So the details...
Fabric:  White embroidered cotton from Global Fabrics, September 2012, I can't remember the cost, but I bought three lots of fabric coming to $100 all together.
 Notions:   Thread, interfacing for the neck facing and an invisible zipper.
Pattern:  Sewaholic Alma
First worn:  Now I can't rightly remember, back in late June/early July at some point.
Worn with (in this pic):  An RTW skirt from Next (UK), and a very battered and sad pair of black pumps which I've worn and worn from M&S (UK)
Changes made:  Yep, completely redrafted the sleeves to give a cuffed puff sleeve.
Another one?  I reckon I probably will. This one gets lots of wear. It's comfortable and the fit is great for me.