Self-drafted pencil skirt

This has been a LONG time in the making.

I bought this fabric the first time I went to Goldhawk Road, London, when I was still in the UK. Erm, that was about September 2011. It's wool with a silver thread running through it. I think the lining was actually bought in John Lewis, not on Goldhawk Road. At the time, I remember thinking ooh, that's expensive, but when I consider now, I think the fabric was about GBP15 a metre. Being wool, it was 60 inches wide, so I had a metre. Bargain! (Sorry, I'm using both imperial and metric at the same time. A bad habit of mine which I need to curtail!)

The pattern started as my first ever self-drafted skirt. In October 2011, Sew Country Chick ran a pencil skirt draft-a-long, which I decided to join in with. I got so far. I drafted the pattern in October and even managed to stitch up a muslin. Yes, you did read that right, I sewed a muslin! I even got the fabric and lining cut and managed to sew the darts in the shell. Then life changed, we finally sold up and moved to New Zealand!

I didn't get to finish the skirt last winter, so I was determined to finish it for this. I managed to get some sewing done while I had my ankle in plaster, but it was slow going...

Anyway, the skirt is finally finished.

I found a bias binding which managed the lining to use for the seams. All seams for the main skirt are bound using this bias binding. It's the first time I've used Hong Kong seams, but believe you me, this fabric frays like anything! All seams on the lining fabric are French seams.

 

The zip is just a centred zip in the back of the skirt. For the waistband, I stitched the lining to the skirt, then attached curved Petersham to the top. The lining doesn't have darts in it, I ended up changing allegiance and following Sunni's pencil skirt sewalong who suggested that the lining should just have pleats in it.

 

The back of the skirt has a back vent. I think a back vent looks so much better, plus it's stronger for fabric which is as loosely woven as this. I got a bit confused with the lining for the vent and ended up fudging it, but this can't be seen on the outside and it now looks like it's just a seam that's meant to be there! [I cut back both sides of the lining by the vent and had to stitch one cut part back on again - oops!]

The inside of the vent and the hem are all finished with the bias binding too. The wool fabric was really bulky and just wouldn't have worked hemming up without the binding.

So the finished article...

I really pleased with myself how this skirt has turned out. The only problem with it, is that it's now too big around the waist. I think perhaps my drafting wasn't great, but it was a first. I get loads of compliments when I wear it. The colours are great for cheering me up on a grotty day. Plus the skirt is warm and is great for wearing on a windy day in Wellington!

The details
Fabric:  Teal green and black wool with a silver thread running through, purchased on Goldhawk Road, October 2011
Notions and lining:   Green lining fabric from John Lewis, also purchased October 2011, black zipper, green bias binding
Pattern:  Self-drafted pencil skirt, based on sewalongs from Sew Country Chick and a Fashionable Stitch
First worn:  Ages ago at a Wellington Sewing Bloggers meet on 19th May, it's just taken me a long time to get the photos done...
Worn with:  In these photos, a white T-shirt and dark green cardigan from Glassons (the former is losing it's shape...), black tights (most likely from Marks and Spencer in the UK!) and black pumps bought cheaply recently as a stop gap.

Sewing and little singing...

Very little sewing has got done in the past few weeks, but I've been busy in other ways...

I've been wanting to learn about pattern drafting having been encouraged by drafting Sew Country Chick's pencil skirt and how that seems to be working. I've drafted the pieces and have put together a muslin. I know it's meant to be made in similar fabric to the finished version, but... The first muslin was decidedly too big around the waist at the front. Not sure why, I've checked, double-checked and triple-checked my measurements and the instructions and still can't work it out. So I've taken in the front darts more and now have a workable muslin which fits.

Mm, methinks my mirror needs a clean!!

I've even managed to cut out the fabric and lining. This lovely woven fabric and lining I found at Goldhawk Road when I went in September.

 

I've also been trying to finish off Colette Patterns Voilet blouse. I'll hopefully be able to post about this soon. I daren't start too many projects, they'll never get finished, plus I have a tight timescale at the moment (it's a big secret which hopefully I can let you know about soon!) No you won't convince me to tell...

So to help me with pattern drafting, I've been into London today. I treated myself to a trip to MacCulloch and Wallis. I really didn't know what to expect. It was like an Aladdin's Cave with basic shelving and boxes crammed full of haberdashery, materials, ribbons, buttons, etc. So what did I buy... A Patternmaster and a set of French curves! I'll be well away now!!

However, the main reason for going into London... Well I described it as a little singing, it was quite a big sing really! The BBC is doing a series on BBC4 on the Symphony and to launch the series, they put together what they described as a Pop-up choir. So this lunch-time at St Pancras International in London I was part of a choir singing the final movement of Beethoven's 9th Symphony (Choral). For those who know the piece, it's quite a hard sing for about 20 minutes. We had the BBC Symphony Orchestra downstairs and the choir upstairs.

St Pancras International is not known for holding concerts, but with the numbers standing watching, I'd love to know how many missed their trains and what those getting off the Eurostar thought of their welcome to London!

Sorry, no photos of me, but here are a couple of the general event.

 

The orchestra taking their seats

 The soloists grand entrance down the escalator!!

An edited video is here on YouTube. No pictures of me, the glass screen was too high!! 

Any readers who happened to be in St Pancras this lunch time, I hope you enjoyed the impromtu concert. It was quite an experience I have to say and quite different to our normal concerts in the Barbican, etc!!

Time for some reading...

Drafting the pencil skirt with Sew Country Chick, I've been interested whether I may be able to draft more.

I can't really afford to go on any courses, plus because of the big secret I can't commit long term. So I've made use of being a librarian and have sourced lots of books to have a look through with a view to getting my own copy. I think there's still two or three on their way, currently I have...

Pattern-drafting for fashion:  the basics by Teresa Gilewska. I quite like this book. The images and instructions are clear and simple and easy to read and as far as I'm concerned, perfect for a beginner. I've also requested the advanced version to have a look at too. I have to say, I'm sorely tempted.

Make your own patterns by Rene Bergh. Another book which is perfect for a beginner. It also has different patterns and images to the Gilewska book and compliments it well. I almost think it's worth getting both!!

Metric pattern cutting by Winifred Aldrich. I think this is quite a technical book and ideally suited for those doing a pattern drafting course. For me, however, I think it's really far too technical and far too advanced for me.

Sorry, I've not posted photos of the insides, I didn't want to be caught with copyright issues...

I've also been going through a book I got last Christmas, which has been a god-send.

 

The sewing book by Alison Smith. This basically shows tips for sewing, such as how to insert zips, putting in pockets, etc, etc. There's loads of information in it with really clear images. Alison Smith runs a sewing school in Leicestershire in the UK (Alison Victoria School of Sewing), where they run a number of different courses, covering pattern drafting, boning, simple day-to-day sewing, etc. If I had the money, I'd be there tomorrow, but...

Inspiration... and help!

I've seen this dress and love the shape so much I've got to have it!! I'd much rather be able to tell people I've made it, not bought it. I'm sure I can make it to last too, not to fall apart in 10 minutes...

Has anyone any ideas where I might find a pattern similar? The dress is a simple shift

It has a pleated neck with lovely short pleated sleeves...

The waist is really lovely, it's not just the four soft pleats echoing the neck at the top of the skirt. Look at that lovely detail around each side...

The back is just simple and beautifully elegant...

Please, can anyone suggest a similar pattern? I think I can find a sleeve, back and at a pinch the skirt, but the neck?? My pattern drafting skills are NOT up to drafting this!

You know what it's like when you see something which just has to be bought...

Any ideas?

Pencil skirt draft-a-long: parts 1 & 2

Well so far so good... I'm following Sew Country Chick's pencil skirt pattern draft-a-long. I got this beautiful fabric when I went to Goldhawk Road, which is just crying out for a pencil skirt. I also got some lining, so I'm hoping to be clever and line mine...

So far we've measured ourselves (ouch, I need to lose some weight!) And now I've drafted the front pattern piece. I think I'll make a muslin/toile, it's the first pattern I've drafted and am just a tad apprehensive! I'm going doo-lally, I NEVER make a toile!!

The top of the front section, all drawn by hand (I've no French curves).

It looks enormous! I know my bum is big, but...