Colette Jasmine

Now that the frantic sewing and posting of TMS Indie Pattern Month has finished, I can post about other makes finished before June which I didn't have the chance to post...

And so first up...

...Colette Patterns Jasmine.

I bought this pattern way back when I was still in the UK, that's over two and a half years ago - coo, have I really been in NZ that long? It doesn't feel like it. Anyway, I digress.

I have to say there isn't really much to say about the pattern. It's really easy to put together, but it does use a fair amount of fabric, since it's all cut on the bias. There are no fastenings and obviously if it wasn't cut on the bias you wouldn't get it on! Doh, I'm prattling away as I don't know what to say! So there is both a centre front and centre back seam in addition to the side seams.

It all went together pretty quickly, even with this slippy poly crepe type fabric, if there are lots of pins, it's not a problem.

There are not many options with this pattern, basically a collar in contrasting fabric or not, or slightly longer neck ties so they can be tied into a bow and two sleeve versions. It's pretty obvious I made it out of all the same fabric, but I did cut the longer ties. They're still not long enough for me, these look silly tied up as far as I'm concerned, so they will remain lose (and probably get caught in my soup or something!)

One thing I don't like about the collar is that there's a facing. Why, oh why did I bother? What is the need for a facing when there's a collar? In my case, it just didn't help it lie flatter, I've ended up with a collar which kinda a kinks in places. I think it would be better to do away with the facing and change how the collar is attached to enclose raw edges.

I decided to make the puffed sleeves with a cuff and to be honest, I think they are possibly a bit long, but I'm hoping they won't be a problem. The cuffs completely enclose all seams, as they are attached whole and then I hand sewed them on the inside. I do think this blouse would like kinda cute with short lose sleeves or even sleeveless. However, if you do consider this, check out the armscye, it's pretty big, even on me and I'm no fairy!

The details

Fabric:  A white patterned poly crepe from the Fabric Warehouse remnants bin sometime in February. I originally saw the fabric in their pop-up shop, but decided not to buy it. It was only $5 from the remnants bin - bargain!

Notions:   Thread and interfacing for the collar and facings.

Pattern:  Colette Patterns Jasmine blouse version 1 with longer ties and puffed sleeves.
First worn:  For these photos back in May at the recently refurbished National War Memorial here in Wellington. The skirt is a RTW skirt which is years old. It was an amazing day, the weather was something special, particularly since it was the middle of May and we were heading to winter. "You can't beat Wellington on a good day!"

These photos were taken by Kat, who has also used this fabric in the other colourway for her Simone dress.
Changes made:  None at all. I think I cut a size 12, can't remember now, it was two months ago and I've been to sleep since then! I think actually in hindsight, it is a wee bit big for me and there is little shaping, bar two bust darts.
Recommend?  I certainly recommend the pattern, it's an easy quick make. The instructions were easy to follow. I've worn this a number of times and had a lot of compliments. I would recommend leaving the facing off and just adding the collar if you're brave enough. I don't think the facing adds to it at all.

Oh, you're wanting outtakes aren't you? I know...

Well if the lion can roar at me...

Autumnal Beignet

This skirt has been a while in the making. I cut it out in January (I think) with an idea for it to be ready for me to sew in March. It was to be part of Cindy's and EmSewCrazy's impending seasonal change theme for the Stashbusting Challenge.

And so the fabric sat there in it's bag in my sewing room all cut out with no one to sew it. It was a while before I felt like sewing, let alone being capable of walking down the stairs in our house to the sewing room!

When I eventually started sewing, it was still difficult to get up and down the stairs and so pressing seams did not happen as frequently as it should. I managed to finger press some bits, which is possible with linen.

The fabric I bought last February time from Global Fabrics here in Wellington. It was one of my first fabric purchases here in New Zealand, so I will for a silly reason always have a soft spot for it. The lining also came from the same store, but at a later stage, with the prime purpose of lining this skirt.

Not the best photo of the lining and fabric, the red is a real raspberry red and the lining is similar. All the seams (both shell and lining) are French seams, bar the side seams where I couldn't work out the pockets with French seams! However, due to my lack of pressing, some of the seams in the lining did not completely encase the first seam (as above). A wee bit of seam trimming had to take place!

If you haven't worked out already, the pattern is Colette Patterns Beignet, a high-waisted button-through skirt.

I didn't really have any major issues with the pattern, it's pretty simple to put together. I think the frustrating part (not difficult, just frustrating) was attaching the skirt lining to the facings, which are made in the shell fabric. My curves were not perfect on the inside, but no one can seem them, so I'm not worried.

The pattern suggests making the belt loops by stitching them and turning them inside out using a bodkin or threading a needle through, but this was impossible with my fabric, I ruined one.

Consequently, I chucked them all and started again folding them and sewing on the outside. I don't honestly think it shows on the finished skirt.

I added 2 inches (I think) to the length of the skirt. The skirt would have been a tad to short for me otherwise. I like the finished length.

I also used a bit of poetic, ahem, sewer's licence and didn't sew as many buttonholes as on the pattern.  I've got nine. This may seem a strange number, but I had ten buttons and thought I'd keep one spare, so I re-measured and sewed nine buttonholes. These weren't all without a hitch. For some reason my machine decided to stay still as I stitched one and ended up with an enormous thick stitch. I had to unpick it (something I am not a fan of, since my seam ripper and I generally part after an argument!)

What do you think of these buttons though?

I got them at the Christmas market here in Wellington. They're wooden and I think they look great, but then I might be slightly biased! :-)

If I did anything differently next time, I would consider making the pockets from the shell fabric, depending on what fabrics I was using. The pattern uses the lining fabric, but with this mix of fabrics, I don't think they lay flat enough.

So, the details
Fabric:  Raspberry red linen for the shell bought February 2012 from Global Fabrics, red polyester lining fabric from Global Fabrics, October time
Trim:   Nine flowered wooden buttons from the underground market, Frank Kitts car park, Wellington
Pattern:  Colette Beignet
First worn:  Thursday for work and lunch with a fellow Wellington sewing blogger, Melissa, where we found time to suss out MrsC's new off-shoot from her craft shop, Made Marion on Lambton. Well I needed some thread, a zip and also an invisible zipper foot!
Worn with:  My sparkly Sorbetto (made in September 2011), black belt from Glassons, black cardigan from Glassons, Everybody black pumps from a shoe shop in Edinburgh (UK). Oh and of course the added sexy moonboot and crutches :-)

 I'd been to work sitting down and the nature of linen means it's a tad creased, but who cares, don't those buttons look cute?

 I would say this is closest to the real colour.

Recent bargains...

I know I'm supposed to be using up my stash, but that's this year and all but two pieces from this I bought last year - yep you might have guessed I'd talk my way around it somehow :-)

So, my purchases...

Before Christmas, Arthur Toye had his half price sale. The excellent Wellington blogging network made sure I knew about the sale and I was there as soon as my little stubby legs would carry me!

 A plain red suiting fabric (not sure - a dress), black "dolly mixture" sheer fabric (possibly a Pendrell?) and a black and white patterned fabric (more of below!)

 The black and white, printed in NZ, covered in silver ferns and kiwis - love it! A skirt?

 Sewing related fabric - isn't it great? I've got an ottoman which my father made years ago and I use it to store fabrics, etc. I'm going to re-cover it in this, since the current cover is pink flowery stuff which fitted my bedroom when I was about 12 :-)

Stretch cotton - I love these colours. It's beautiful and so cheery. I'm determined this is going to become a shift dress when I find a decent pattern!

These were great bargains. I think the whole lot came to about $100! It just had to be done!

Then this week Global Fabrics have their VIP sale - 40% off! :-) First day today, I was there... I was reasonably firm on myself and one of the assistants stayed with me to make sure I didn't buy loads - she was very good, not pushy or anything, but so helpful with ideas. So these are my purchases, hot off the press - or should I say out of the bag this evening?

 A grey and white stripe stretch cotton. I've actually bought this to make a shirt for Mr N. It will be the first shirt I make him and still don't have a pattern, although I'm toying with Burda 7767, knowing how much success Carolyn has had with this pattern. Any recommendations and possibly pitfalls with making a man's shirt will be gratefully received.

This is wool/silk mix (I think!) It'll definitely need dry cleaning, but look at it, the crossways threads are dark blue and the lengthwise threads are pink, so the solid colour looks purple, but depending on the light or how you're looking at it, the colour changes. Love it. This is probably going to be a lined straight-ish skirt of some description - possibly a Beignet?

So, although I'm not trying to add to the stash, I've bought fabrics with wardrobe staples in mind, which is half of what I'm intending to do this year, ie more wearable separates (not dresses for posh occasions of which I don't go to that many!). Plus the fabric to make a start on my less-selfish sewing :-)

Stash busting my way :-)

At the beginning of the month I had about two weeks off work with laryngitis. I think my Mr N really enjoyed it, since within a month, his new wife had lost her voice! It's not been my idea of fun in some ways since my other escapism (apart from sewing) is singing and I still need to abstain and it's so hard not to sing!

Anyway, I have days off work and what happens? My mind goes to sewing and what I can make. I intended to stash bust and cut out three things, the dress of which is finished. I've still got a skirt and blouse to finish. I bought some more patterns in the hopes I could use them to use up the stash. Look at these... two new Colette patterns (new for me)

The Beignet is sorted, but I've no fabric for the Anise! :-)

 

My first Sewaholic patterns. I was so impressed with the speed. They were here from Canada within the week! Not bad I reckon.

I also managed to download some patterns from t'Interweb, a couple of Burda Style patterns, the Eva dress from Your Style Rocks - this dress is so elegant and looks amazing, I can't wait to get my hands on this pattern!

 

And also Victory Patterns Nicola Dress

I did get carried away! I can't wait to get started on these...

Trouble is, I then met up with Juliet. The Crazy Gypsy came down to Wellington and we went fabric shopping... We went to Global Fabrics and all my good intentions of using up my stash disappeared. Well wouldn't they with such lovely goodies and masses of lovely fabrics in front of you?

I reckon I did pretty well though. I got four lots of fabric for about $100. OK, not a complete bargain, but still... First some lining for my Beignet (you'll have to wait for that!)

This lovely cotton (not quite eyelet!) I think this will become an Alma blouse.

This blue and pale cream cotton, which I think will possibly become the Cambie dress. It's quite a heavy fabric which hangs beautifully. Global Fabrics had this in a couple of different colour ways, I decided the dark blue was better for me.

 

Finally this lovely white jersey. It'll need a top under it due to the sheerness of the fabric, but I just couldn't resist it, plus it was on special!! I'm still not good at sewing knit fabrics, so I'm hoping and praying I can make this up successfully! Isn't it lovely?

So I've admitted! I'm off work sick and spend my hard earned cash on patterns and fabric - oops! My stash busting project kinda didn't happen! Do you do the same? I think it must be that I have more time to think about the sewing when I'm off like that and end up buying all sorts! Methinks I ought to learn to control myself! Oh well!

A Thai Violet

Like the play on words? Geddit? This blouse is certainly shy and retiring, it’s taken me seven months to finish!

 

I’m back anyway!

The pattern is Colette patterns Violet, version 2. I decided I wanted the longer sleeves and thought they would suit the fabric better too. The fabric I bought last August when we were in Thailand. There’s still about 3 or 4 metres left for me to make an Anna Sui Vogue pattern I bought some time ago.

I’ve not made any adjustments, I’m not the best at adjusting patterns anyway (note to self, I really must learn to adjust patterns to fit better!) Me being me too, I didn’t make a muslin. Instead I just went and cut out the pattern and starting sewing!

I’m pretty pleased with the result though. I remember having a few problems with the collar, ending with one side more rounded than the other, fortunately this doesn’t show with this fabric. For the first time in my life, I actually used French seams throughout, bar the seam across the back and the arm holes. Are you impressed? This probably added to the length of time it took to finish, not to mention the lack of machine for four months of the make!

 Note the tidy French seam!

Mm, don't think that was in the plan - where's the seam ripper got to?

The fabric is quite fine and slippery and I ended up at one point catching in fabric where I shouldn’t. Time for some unpicking! The top buttonhole was also a nightmare. I lost count of how many times I tried to sew it, fortunately it doesn’t show. All these problems using woven fabrics, dare I even try to sew something with all the lovely knits here in New Zealand!

If I was brave enough, I think I might try to add darts like Handmade Jane, etc have. The fit is very loose, but as long as I tuck it in I think it looks OK. It may have been better to do an FBA, but that’s for another time. So will I make up the pattern again? Yep, I reckon so. The pattern is clear and easy to follow and I like the shape and finish. I’m not normally one to reuse patterns, but I have a feeling this may be one of those few patterns. I think the longer sleeves would be a tad more comfy using a small cuff with the sleeve gathered in, rather than elastic. Maybe I can change them on this one?

I also couldn't decide on the colour of buttons. I originally bought red buttons, then saw these lovely shiny black ones, what do you think?

The blouse was actually finished all bar the buttonholes when my machine went in the container last December. I was hoping I’d manage to borrow Mum’s machine at Christmas to finish, but it didn’t happen and the unfinished blouse came in my suitcase when we travelled over! I even contemplated sewing buttons on the wrong side and stitching poppers inside, but I persevered and held out. The lifesafer was a new acquaintance in my new choir in Wellington who lent me her machine. A week later the buttonholes were done and the blouse was finally finished. Two weeks later I finally get round to taking photos, by which time my own machine has arrived and we are at last surrounded by our own belongings (bar the few odd things which got broken on the way over and those that have gone missing – now where’s that insurance claim form got to?)

Hopefully I can now get sewing again, although at the moment I seem to be quite busy and finding time to cut out anything, let alone sew it is quite difficult.

Anyway, here’s to a new year of blogging and sewing, albeit four months into the new year! :-)

In the meantime, I'm still debating whether I can take part in Me Made May...

That exciting feeling...

Does anyone else get that exciting feeling when they do their first stitches with a new project or new piece of fabric??

My first tentative stitches with the lovely crepe I bought on holiday in Thailand... All I was doing was stay-stitching the neck on Colette Patterns Voilet!

Oh and if anyone can suggest the best way to press the seams with crepe? Damp cloth and warm iron??

So Nikki, what's next on the list to sew?

This is a tough question! I've so many projects planned now, I'm really unsure where to start. I haven't helped the situation by buying some more fabric from the town market where I work. What do you think of this?

It's viscose and cost me £10 for about 2 and a half metres of 60" wide! Loads of fabric!! The colour hasn't come out brilliantly, it's actually a cream colour, not white. The seams will certainly be a mess, I may have to actually use French seams for this. But what shall I make?

I'd like a dress with 3/4 sleeves so I can wear it in the cooler months. I've three that I'm thinking of...

Vogue 8413 - it's got 3/4 sleeves. The cowl neck would work well with the material because it's heavy and drapes really well. Not sure the straight skirt will be the best.

Simplicity 2145 - cowl neck or V-neck. Flared skirt to drape around my legs! Lots of different sleeves. Ooh, I do like these Project Runway patterns!

Vogue 8511 - simple, elegant and understated.

Or perhaps the new Colette Patterns Peony?? Simple, flared skirt, 3/4 sleeves...

However, this is not all I have to make for the autumn/winter...

I've got the beautiful fabric I bought on holiday in Thailand.

This is going to be made into Colette Patterns Violet and the remainder I'm going to team up with plain black to make Vogue 1178, the beautiful floaty Anna Sui dress.

I've also got all the fabric I bought when I went down to Goldhawk Road. The aqua and black woven fabric is at the top of the list to make into a pencil skirt.

Sew much to do, sew little time! I really must get doing something! But which pattern should I make from the viscose at the top of this post?

A Sparkly Sorbetto

This is my second Sorbetto from Colette Patterns. At the beginning of the month, I wrote that this was cut out and ready to go. Well, it too considerably longer to make than it ever should have done.

I didn't have enough fabric to make the front or back in the same material. It's a bit of a mixture of fabrics, fingers crossed it'll be OK. There's a seam at about waist height on the front, but this doesn't show when it's tucked in. There's also a seam on the back to give the back length I needed. There's also a seam down the centre of the back since I didn't have enough white material to place it on the fold.

I used some white cotton fabric which is left over from a gored skirt I made about three or four years ago, which has a silver thread running through it. This was used for the front. I then teamed it up with some plain white cotton to make the back, which was also left over from the skirt.

I'm pleased with the binding on this Sorbetto, it's so much better than the last one. I decided to use Miss P's idea of using drafting tape to cut the right width. It worked like a dream. I was possibly more careful with the sewing this time too!

I was determined that this Sorbetto would have sleeves, since I would get a lot more use out of it. So I tried to use the sleeve pattern from Sew Weekly. I had enough of the sparkly fabric to make the sleeves, but they just didn't work. I'm not a pattern drafter, so couldn't really check if they were the right size... I made them, stitched them in and tried it on. Within ten minutes there I was unpicking them and chucking the sleeves in the bin!

In the end, I decided I'd try a sleeve from another pattern. This sleeve comes from a Burda blouse that I made in May time. These weren't without problems... I cut out two sleeves, then sewed the hems and elastic casing the same way on each sleeve! So I had to cut yet another sleeve. The sleeves are now from plain white cotton since there wasn't enough of the other fabric! This Sorbetto just didn't want to be made. It's taken me weeks to sort out - well it feels like weeks!

Here at last is the finished top! The seam half way down the front looks quite obvious, but it doesn't show when I'm wearing it!

I found these buttons which were sent through free from JosyRose, which I decided to sew on the front to match up with the silver thread and detract from the seam on the front.

I also decided to make the most of the seam in the centre back and made a false buttonhole with some remaining bias-binding and sewed the last of the sparkly buttons at the top of the back. It doesn't hang brilliantly well, so I may decide to change this. I had in my mind's eye a brilliantly tidy buttonhole with binding going right down into the cut out section too, but it didn't quite come out as I hoped. I'm hoping the button hides most of the problems!

It's made and it's getting it's first outing on Day 19 of Self-Stitched September!

Eighties sorbetto

Well this is my first Sorbetto top from Colette patterns. I've used a really old fabric I found in my stash at home. I think the rest was a dress when I left school (help, that's over 20 years ago)!

How's this for a real 80's geometric pattern? 

There wasn't enough to cut out the full width front, so I decided to make the front pleat smaller. I didn't lengthen the pattern like some, the idea with this one was really to see how the pattern came out and go from there.

I found some plain white fabric at home with which to make the bias binding and used my new bias making gadget. I don't think I cut it particularly well, as it didn't work brilliantly. Although thanks to Miss P, I think I shall be well away now, as well as getting through lots of drafting tape!

The bias binding didn't go on particularly well, possibly for a number of reasons... I didn't make it very well, the top had been sitting around for ages because I was busy and I was getting fed up with it not being finished and I probably had the TV on at the same time and was watching that too much!!

Well here's the finished item...

It's getting it's first outing for SSS'11, since I've decided it doesn't look too bad and might be fun to wear!! So watch this space!

Thanks Colette Patterns!

In the meantime, the next Sorbetto has already been cut out and is on it's way! The fabric I've used for the next has a silver thread running through it (on white), I'd love to find a silvery grey fabric to make the bias strips. Any suggestions??