Sunday, 3 November 2013

Frocktober time!

Yay! I've actually managed to make something for The Monthly Stitch. Three of my lovely WSBN friends are behind the Monthly Stitch and ever since it started I've been attempting to get my sewing to match in. [As you've probably realised, I'm not the best at keeping up with joint projects, or group sewing.]

This is the fourth in a line of Sewaholic patterns I've made this year and this time I've joined the Cambie bandwagon. [One is yet to be photographed and blogged about.] They are such a great fit for me and go together so quickly too. I have some more of Tasia's patterns stashed away, so I reckon another will happen before long!

This fabric has also been tucked away for about a year (which I think officially means it's from the stash!) I bought it specifically for a Cambie. It's a stretch cotton sateen and perhaps is a bit stiff for the full-skirted Cambie, but hey, it's worked out OK, don't ya think?

The background on the fabric is a very pale cream colour, not white, which I actually prefer. The pattern is in navy blue. So you can guess I chose a fine navy cotton lawn for the lining. The zip is also navy. I've even done things like using a navy bobbin thread and cream top thread so the stitching all matches with the fabric. It's a bit of a faff changing the thread and bobbin a lot, but it's satisfying when done.

I ended up making this for a conference dinner I was going to. It was the impetus I needed to make it up. The dinner theme was a sea theme. OK, it's not very sea like, but teamed with a cropped navy jacket, I reckon it looked kind of sea like in the end. :-) The plan was also to add a lace edge to the lining which showed below the skirt, but have you have tried to buy navy lace? I couldn't find any for love nor money!

I did make a muslin of the bodice. Mainly to check the length and dart placement. [No you're not going to see any photos of the muslin.] But suffice it to say, it was too short as usual! The darts also finished too high and too far to the side, so I had to alter those.

I took care over the pattern placement for the bodice and the belt/waistband piece.

The bodice front is centred exactly. I spent ages cogitating and ruminating over how I would cut the waistband piece with two different pieces centred. I'm glad I chose the one I did for the outside, the inside piece is not the best piece of sewing I've ever done.

The back is also cut to look as if the zip is not really there. I'm not completely pleased with how the waistband has lined up at the back for the zip. I put this zip in three times and this is the best version. Perhaps I should have done an invisible zip after all? [This is just a centred zip, as I couldn't get hold of a navy invisible zip when I went looking.] And of course this dress has pockets :-)

All the seams are pinked, I decided that since the dress is fully lined, I could get away with pinking rather than French seams, which I might have used on the lining at least.

The details...
Fabric:  Cream cotton sateen with a navy pattern from Global Fabrics (that was) in September 2012. I can't remember the price, but it was not in the sale (and not particularly cheap!) The lining came from the Fabric Warehouse.
 Notions:   Thread and a standard dress zip, oh and I also stitched cotton tape to the neckline to help it keep shape and not gape.
Pattern:  Sewaholic Cambie view B
First worn:  To the LIANZA conference dinner in Hamilton, where I got lots of compliments and did you really make that comments :-) PS Librarians really do know how to party...
Worn with (in this pic):  Cream sling back wedges I bought in Nordstrom, Chicago about 7 years ago!
Changes made:  Lengthened the bodice by 3/4 inch and shifted the darts more to the centre.
Another one?  Oh yes, I think I will eventually, once I've made everything else on my wish list!

No apologies for this one, but what's a girl to do when wearing a full skirted frock in Frocktober?


  1. It looks as if your efforts will pay off for a long time. This is a beautiful dress. I'll steal your technique of using different color threads.

  2. Nikki this looks great. I love what you did with the waist band and the pattern matching down the zip at the back is fab! I like that you used a dark lining, I bet it feels great.

  3. You little Sewaholic fan-girl you! :) Her patterns suit you, more, MOAR! Love the last pic xx

  4. Looks fantastic! I really need to make a cambie - I bought the pattern like 6 months ago...

  5. This is gorgeous, and it suits you so much! Well done!